The following work is a documentation about the exploration of the boundaries and the interactions of bioplastic, fibers, plants, and pigments. The recipes used were all based on few ingredients mixed in different combinations: algae powder, moss, cornstarch, glycerol, vinegar, liquid pigments, synthetic and natural fibers, water. I didn't use animal gelatin as a personal choice, even knowing it probably gives the best result, to have a completely vegetal base for my bioplastic.
The different combination and dosage of the elements led to a different yield in terms of strength, elasticity, transparency, durability of the bioplastic materials obtained. The thickness of the final piece molded, was a relevant variable in the experiments.
The different combination and dosage of the elements led to a different yield in terms of strength, elasticity, transparency, durability of the bioplastic materials obtained. The thickness of the final piece molded, was a relevant variable in the experiments.
Algae powder, glycerol, water, vinegar, moss, wool fibers, wool fabric:
Algae/cornstarch, glycerol, water, vinegar, synthetic fibers, fabric, felted wool, liquid pigments:
Observations:
- Cornstarch and algae powder were alternated - never together - in all the recipes.
- Cornstach led to a dense, not seethrough material, while algae powder brought to a mostly transparent/translucid material.
- Liquid concentrated pigments worked amazingly with these kind of densities, that just needed one or few drops in the mix. In particular together with cornstarch, they led to some very enjoiable jelly-like fluorescent consistencies.
- Loose wool fiber was really wonderful to observe in the trasparency of algae based bioplastic, but in the longterm wool fabric and felted wool, led to better results.
- Moss worked good with algae based bioplastic, cornstarch based material was too soft in the first steps to hold it in place and became too hard in the end not to easily break.
- Both plastic and silicon molds work perfectly to shape the pieces, classical Petri dishes of course are the first on the list.
- All the mixtures at a liquid/hot state need to be casted quickly to achieve the better outcomes.
- Drying processes could be very tricky, depending principally on the thickness of the pieces and the external climate/umidity variability, and could determine substantially the good success of the experiments.
- Cornstach led to a dense, not seethrough material, while algae powder brought to a mostly transparent/translucid material.
- Liquid concentrated pigments worked amazingly with these kind of densities, that just needed one or few drops in the mix. In particular together with cornstarch, they led to some very enjoiable jelly-like fluorescent consistencies.
- Loose wool fiber was really wonderful to observe in the trasparency of algae based bioplastic, but in the longterm wool fabric and felted wool, led to better results.
- Moss worked good with algae based bioplastic, cornstarch based material was too soft in the first steps to hold it in place and became too hard in the end not to easily break.
- Both plastic and silicon molds work perfectly to shape the pieces, classical Petri dishes of course are the first on the list.
- All the mixtures at a liquid/hot state need to be casted quickly to achieve the better outcomes.
- Drying processes could be very tricky, depending principally on the thickness of the pieces and the external climate/umidity variability, and could determine substantially the good success of the experiments.
Conclusions:
On all the websites, blogs, articles I read about bioplastics before starting to do my own experiments, the issues about the durability and reliability of these kind of materials were almost never mentioned. Of course we're referring to an individual, handmade, sometimes artisanal, not industrial process. And of course, the fundamental characteristic of bioplastic is to be "bio", so something mostly disposable. But there are things I didn't find anywhere if not during my personal research.
Things no one will tell you about bioplastics:
- For a decent reliability of the final work, make sure to make thin pieces of material (max. 2-3 mm). I'd say paper-thin is the best thickness, but with not less than 2,5ml of glycerol for 100ml of water. If less, thin works will probably break when dried.
Over 3mm works could easily produce inner mold due to the difficulty in drying completely.
- Even if it looks like it, it doesn't work like rubber or resin.
- The pieces will reduce their mass at least of the 50% when completely dried, due to the consistent amount of water in the mix.
- Make sure bioplastic dries completely by 3-4 days, if not there will be mold growing risk.
- Leave it aside at least for a month and verify what's been of it before using it to craft or create something.
- Keep an eye on the molecular food ingredients and procedures, you could make amazing discoveries for new durable recipes' experiments.
Things no one will tell you about bioplastics:
- For a decent reliability of the final work, make sure to make thin pieces of material (max. 2-3 mm). I'd say paper-thin is the best thickness, but with not less than 2,5ml of glycerol for 100ml of water. If less, thin works will probably break when dried.
Over 3mm works could easily produce inner mold due to the difficulty in drying completely.
- Even if it looks like it, it doesn't work like rubber or resin.
- The pieces will reduce their mass at least of the 50% when completely dried, due to the consistent amount of water in the mix.
- Make sure bioplastic dries completely by 3-4 days, if not there will be mold growing risk.
- Leave it aside at least for a month and verify what's been of it before using it to craft or create something.
- Keep an eye on the molecular food ingredients and procedures, you could make amazing discoveries for new durable recipes' experiments.
